The OTHER Parisian waterway | The West Australian

Picture a waterway in Paris and the curvaceous Seine will almost automatically spring to mind. Snaking by some of the city’s most iconic landmarks, the river played a starring role in the Olympics, both during that flamboyant, rain-lashed opening ceremony and for the long-awaited open-water swimming events.

Yet away from the Seine, other Parisian waterways attract admiring gazes, none more so than the Canal Saint-Martin.

Commissioned by Napoleon I, who wanted to boost the city’s transportation and fresh water supply, it was completed in 1825, connecting the Port de l’Arsenal, a marina near the Seine at Bastille, to the Villette district in the old industrial northeast of Paris.

As with the Seine, sightseeing boats offer trips (with commentary) along the canal, which stretches 4.5km, almost 2km of which was placed underground during the urban regeneration of Paris in the mid to late 19th century.

Venturing along the canal by boat will also take you through double lochs and beneath several bridges, including wrought-iron footbridges and mechanical swing bridges. As you glide along, you’ll see Parisians and tourists in the know ambling and enjoying life by the canal-side streets and towpaths.

There’s an array of waterfront bars, eateries, hotels and boutiques — some with brightly coloured facades. In the warmer months, outdoor terraces are routinely jam-packed and you’ll also pass people lolling right by the water, snacking, drinking, reading, chatting and taking selfies late into the evening. There’s a nice blend of tranquillity and buzziness. You may even see the odd person skimming stones into the water — like Amelie (Audrey Tautou) did in the movie of the same name, filmed here in 2001.

Drained and cleaned every 10 to 15 years (the last time was in 2016), the canal has lovely tree-shaded sections and pocket parks where folk gather to play petanque and Molkky — a Finnish throwing game that’s very popular in France.

Cycle lanes also run parallel to the canal so you can pedal beside the water (perhaps riding wheels from the Velib bike-share scheme, which has docking points throughout Paris). The most interesting and photogenic section to cycle (or walk) is the chunk in the 10th arrondissement along the Quai de Valmy, near Place de la Republique, and Jaures Metro station, where the canal joins the Bassin de la Villette, an artificial lake that narrows towards Parc de la Villette, a vast green space studded with quirky modern architecture, museums, venues and exhibition spaces (and where other canals branch off into the Parisian suburbs).

While the Seine will always hog the limelight, Canal Saint-Martin is a thoroughly charming alternative. It’s a year-round diversion, but if you happen to be here in the northern summer, you’ll see it has a special aura, a certain je ne sais quoi.

fact file + Running several times a week between May and October, and occasionally in the low season, there are 2.5-hour cruises along the canal from Port de l’Arsenal to Bassin de la Villette (and vice versa). The price is €23 ($38) one-way. See canauxrama.com. + For more information on visiting Paris, see parisjetaime.com.

A variety of bridges span the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris.
Camera IconA variety of bridges span the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris. Credit: Steve McKenna/The West Australian
Alfresco bars and eateries face the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris.
Camera IconAlfresco bars and eateries face the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris. Credit: Steve McKenna/The West Australian
In warmer weather, Parisians and tourists in the know come to linger by the tree-shaded towpaths of the Canal Saint-Martin.
Camera IconIn warmer weather, Parisians and tourists in the know come to linger by the tree-shaded towpaths of the Canal Saint-Martin. Credit: Steve McKenna/The West Australian
In warmer weather, Parisians and tourists in the know come to linger by the tree-shaded towpaths of the Canal Saint-Martin.
Camera IconIn warmer weather, Parisians and tourists in the know come to linger by the tree-shaded towpaths of the Canal Saint-Martin. Credit: Steve McKenna/The West Australian
Parisians and tourists in the know come to linger by the tree-shaded towpaths of the Canal Saint-Martin.
Camera IconParisians and tourists in the know come to linger by the tree-shaded towpaths of the Canal Saint-Martin. Credit: Steve McKenna/The West Australian
Parisians and tourists in the know come to linger by the tree-shaded towpaths of the Canal Saint-Martin.
Camera IconParisians and tourists in the know come to linger by the tree-shaded towpaths of the Canal Saint-Martin. Credit: Steve McKenna/The West Australian
Parisians and tourists in the know come to linger by the tree-shaded towpaths of the Canal Saint-Martin.
Camera IconParisians and tourists in the know come to linger by the tree-shaded towpaths of the Canal Saint-Martin. Credit: Steve McKenna/The West Australian
In warmer weather, Parisians and tourists in the know come to linger by the tree-shaded towpaths of the Canal Saint-Martin.
Camera IconIn warmer weather, Parisians and tourists in the know come to linger by the tree-shaded towpaths of the Canal Saint-Martin. Credit: Steve McKenna/The West Australian
There are regular sightseeing cruises along the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris.
Camera IconThere are regular sightseeing cruises along the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris. Credit: Steve McKenna/The West Australian
There are regular sightseeing cruises along the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris.
Camera IconThere are regular sightseeing cruises along the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris. Credit: Steve McKenna/The West Australian
Tree-shaded towpaths are a feature of the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris.
Camera IconTree-shaded towpaths are a feature of the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris. Credit: Steve McKenna/The West Australian
Vibrantly-hued shopfronts reflect into the waters of the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris.
Camera IconVibrantly-hued shopfronts reflect into the waters of the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris. Credit: Steve McKenna/The West Australian

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